Why whole fish deserves a place in your kitchen

The fillet habit

In many American kitchens, fish means fillets. They are neat, boneless and quick to cook, and there is nothing wrong with that. But relying only on fillets narrows the range of fish we cook and the ways we enjoy them.

In our view, whole fish is one of the most underused options at the fish counter. It is often treated as something for restaurants or special occasions, when in fact it can be as simple as seasoning, roasting and serving.

Flavor and forgiveness

Cooking fish on the bone tends to produce moist, flavorful results. The bones, skin and head shield the flesh from direct heat and contribute flavor. A whole fish is also more forgiving of timing than a thin fillet, which can go from perfect to dry in moments.

There is variety in the flesh, too. The thicker back, the tender belly and the cheeks each have their own texture. Eating a whole fish lets you discover these differences in one meal.

How to get started

Begin small. A fish of about one to two pounds, such as trout, branzino-sized sea bass or a small snapper, roasts in a home oven without special equipment. Ask the fishmonger to scale and clean it, which most counters will do.

At home, dry the fish, score the skin, season inside and out, add lemon and herbs to the cavity, and roast in a hot oven until the flesh near the bone is opaque. Serve it on a platter and lift the fillets off the bone at the table. Watch for small bones while eating, and take your time.

It may feel unfamiliar the first time. By the second or third, it often becomes one of the easiest dishes in your repertoire. That is why we believe whole fish deserves a regular place in the home kitchen.